So... you're ready to take the plunge into the world of vintage Levi's - or maybe you're adding to your growing collection. Luckily for you, Satine is here to help. With over 20 years finding, fixing, and fitting vintage Levi's (especially the superstar 501s), our owner Anna Tabakman has seen quite a bit of denim, and she also knows what can go wrong when you're selecting that perfect pair.
Here are the 5 mistakes she sees buyers make when searching for the Levi's of their dreams:
No 1: Buying the wrong style
Levi’s, their 170 years of operation, has made plenty of styles, but it’s the 501 style, first designated in the 1890s, that is embedded into American memory. By the 1970’s, the 501s took the shape we’re still obsessed with today. That being said, for the ultra-classic look, what you’re most likely looking for is vintage button-fly USA-made 501s. The perfected cut, the weight of the denim, and the magic fit of the 5-button fly keep us coming back for more, in all varieties of wash and distress level. In your search, you may come across new 501s (not always US-made!), the zip-fly 501Zs and 505s, and other variations. While we love all things Levi's, setting your sights on the right style will help you narrow down your search.
No 2: Taking size at face value
Seasoned vintage shoppers know that sizing over the last century is inconsistent, and asking for exact measurements is necessary for online shopping. It may seem like a given that Levi’s, with their distinctive construction, have not changed their sizes over time. However, we’ve found that the measurements given on the back tag are not consistent and don’t always align with modern sizes. And, many pairs have lost their back tags due to age! Experienced sellers (like Satine!) will hand-size every pair so you know exactly what you’re getting.
No 3: Paying a too-good-to-be-true price
Even though vintage Levi’s aren’t the “luxury goods” you’d expect to see on the black market, they are commonly faked! In some cases, the counterfeit is easily identified: any seller can tell you “vintage 501s” with a zipper don’t exist (except the rare 501Zs) - a 5-button fly is the standard! But, a real expert can also point out variations in stitching and hardware (buttons and rivets) that you wouldn’t catch right away. We've had to break it to a few clients that the $75 vintage Levi's they've walked in with probably aren't legit (or made in the USA, which we'll cover next). On the other side of the spectrum, if a seller is trying to talk you into a pair over $500, it's either super rare, or you're getting a bad deal. Unless you're a serious collector, you shouldn't go broke finding your perfect 501s.
No 4: Assuming all Levi’s are made the same
Real Levi’s are produced all over the world, but vintage USA-made Levi’s are the gold standard in terms of construction and quality. Materials and patterns outside of the USA vary widely. For example, USA-made 501s are have a classic midrise and heavy denim that you’d expect, but we’ve found that pairs made in Mexico are lower rise and made of thinner fabric that sometimes pills. They might be legit Levi's and have a nice price (see above), though you'll wonder why they have a slightly "off" look and feel. A seasoned Levi’s seller will be able to point out the discrepancies and match you with a high-quality pair.
No 5: Thinking your perfect pair doesn’t exist
We get it: buying vintage denim can seem daunting, especially if you've had past struggles with fit. We've all been in a dressing room with a pile of jeans wondering why nothing looks right! But, there’s a reason why vintage 501s are so sought-after: they have a magic quality that we've seen fit a range of body types. So, we know your perfect pair is out there. We've already done the work of selecting the best of the best vintage Levi's for Satine - it's all up to finding a pair you'll love to put on.
Need a little guidance? Contact us, and we'll reach out to help you select the Levi's you've always dreamed of.